Studio Office Cabinet Progress – Trimming Out The Cabinets

In my final submit on this mission, I had constructed the cubby bridge between the cupboards. At that time it seemed like this…

For those who missed the submit the place I confirmed how I constructed the cubby bridge on my own, you’ll be able to see it right here.

So with the entire fundamental trim hooked up, that is what the entire cupboard unit seemed like on the finish of the day final night time…

I began on the prime and labored my method down. So beginning with the cubby bridge, I reduce and hooked up 1″ x 2″ items to the highest and backside. On each, I lined up the highest fringe of the 1″ x 2″ piece in order that it was flush with the plywood on prime and backside of the bridge.

Subsequent, I reduce the vertical items and hooked up these. I hooked up all of this trim utilizing 1.5-inch 16-gauge nails in my nail gun. I didn’t use any wooden glue or development adhesive. Simply the nails.

Subsequent, I labored on the cupboards on the left aspect of the unit. I had already hooked up 2″ x 2″ lumber to the perimeters of the unit, flush with the entrance fringe of the IKEA cupboards, in earlier steps. So in that very same method, I wanted to connect a 2″ x 2″ piece to the highest in order that I’d have one thing to nail the highest trim to. I nailed from the within of the cupboard, and into the two″ x 2″ piece, ensuring that the entrance fringe of the two″ x 2″ piece sat flush with the entrance aspect edges of the IKEA cupboard.

Then I started including the trim, beginning with the piece subsequent to the wall. I measured the gap from the skin fringe of the IKEA cupboard to the wall, after which used my desk noticed to tear a chunk of 1″ x 4″ lumber to the right width.

I additionally ran all of those trim items by means of my planer to airplane them to five/8-inch thickness since that’s the thickness of the IKEA Veddinge doorways and drawer fronts. If I had used the 1-inch lumber (which is definitely 3/4-inch thick) as-is, the trim would have caught out 1/8-inch additional than the doorways and drawer fronts. I don’t actually suppose that’s a giant deal, and if I didn’t have a planer, I might have simply used the 1-inch lumber as-is and handled the completely different thickness to an intentional design resolution. 😀 However since I do have a planer, I made a decision to make use of it.

So with that piece ripped, planed, and reduce to size, I nailed it to the two″ x 2″ in order that it fully coated that area between the cupboard and the wall.

Right here’s one other view. I’ll most likely use some small trim (shoe molding, maybe) to fill in that tiny hole that also stays between the trim piece and the wall. Or I could find yourself caulking it. We’ll see.

Then I repeated that very same course of for the opposite aspect — rip, airplane, reduce, and nail into place.

When attaching face trim round IKEA cupboards, you need to be very positive that you just don’t put the trim over the sting of the cupboard in any respect. The trim can come proper as much as that outdoors edge, however in the event you cowl over any of that edge, it would forestall the doorways and drawers from functioning correctly.

To be able to connect trim to the underside, I first needed to connect a 2″ x 2″ piece to the underside of the cupboard. I forgot to take an image of this step, nevertheless it’s the very same factor I did on the highest of the cupboard in step one above. Identical to on the opposite three sides of this tall cupboard, this 2″ x 2″ piece gave me one thing to nail this trim piece to.

After which lastly, I hooked up the highest trim piece.

Since I made a decision to do ornamental trim on the skin cupboards, and a toekick on the center part, I wanted so as to add yet another piece to this cupboard part earlier than the essential trim was completed. I reduce a chunk of 1″ x 4″ wooden to about six inches in size…

And I hooked up it proper right here, perpendicular to the entrance trim piece alongside the ground. I nailed it in place proper by means of the entrance of the entrance trim piece and into the sting of this perpendicular piece. For those who can’t envision the aim for this piece, you’ll perceive it in just a little bit.

Since I had initially deliberate to do ornamental trim (no toekick) throughout the entrance of the entire cupboard unit, I had put in these spacer items with the legs (which solely served to help me in holding that spacer in place simpler whereas I screwed the spacer into place). However now that I needed a toekick, I needed to take away that little leg piece that was in the best way.

I used my Dremel MultiMax oscillating noticed to take away it rapidly and simply, reducing that little leg flush with the underside of the cupboard, and release that area for a toekick.

After which I ripped, planed, and reduce the trim piece to cowl that spacer. Since that is the part with the toekick, I reduce this trim piece the peak of the cupboard, and didn’t have this piece go all the best way to the ground.

With the essential trim put in on the left cupboard unit, I repeated that complete course of on the proper aspect.

The very last thing to do was to put in the toekick. Since I had hooked up the wooden toes flush with the entrance of those cupboards, I needed to transfer them again to make room for a toekick. You possibly can see what I imply within the photograph under. See how these wooden block toes are proper alongside the entrance fringe of the cupboards?

As soon as they had been the place I wanted them to be for a toekick, I re-glued them into place (which was fairly difficult in that tight space beneath the cupboard). Right here’s one other image I took after I did this identical course of on the mural wall cupboards. You possibly can see the toes moved again in comparison with the toes proper alongside the entrance edge.

So as soon as I had the toes on these cupboards moved again and re-glued into their new place, I reduce and nailed the toekick to these wooden blocks. And now you’ll be able to see the aim of these items I hooked up perpendicular to the entrance trim items on these aspect cupboard models.

With out these items, there could be a gap there. As soon as the toekick piece was nailed in place, I acquired my scorching glue gun into that crack between the aspect perpendicular piece and the top of the toekick, squeezed some glue alongside the top of the toekick piece, after which used a tiny prybar to comfortable that perpendicular piece to the toekick till the glue dried. So now that perpendicular piece is securely in place alongside the entrance nailed edge and the again the place it’s glued.

And with that, the essential trim was completed!

I used to be disenchanted that I ran out of time to do the ornamental trim, however I don’t like utilizing my instruments outdoors previous 9:00pm. So I nonetheless want so as to add crown molding to the highest of every part…

After which I’ll add ornamental trim to the underside of the aspect cupboard models.

I haven’t determined but if I’ll add trim (shoe molding or quarter spherical) on this space the place the plywood meets the wall. But when I do, that should wait till after I’ve constructed the countertop. Since I’ll be portray the wall the identical colour as the cupboards, I could use caulk to fill in these tiny cracks fairly than utilizing trim.

In order that’s the progress! It’s coming alongside, and I’m thrilled with the way it’s turning out!