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Domaine des Deux Vallées ‘Clos du Petit Beaupréau’ Savennières, Loire, France 2020 (£22.99, or £19.99 as a part of a combined six, majestic.co.uk) I do know that there are many folks (critical wine lovers very a lot amongst them) who really feel that pondering too onerous about wine and meals matching is a degree of fuss and fussiness an excessive amount of. However, with out ever feeling the have to be too proscriptive or hectoring about it, I do assume there’s fairly quite a lot of enjoyable available in searching for complementary combos. Usually, one of the best matches entail going towards a number of the extra resilient “guidelines” of this a part of the artwork of hospitality, such because the near-instinctive concept that the one color of wine for cheese of every kind is pink. Whereas it’s true there are some pretty darker-pigmented pairings (resembling classic port and Stilton or old-style rioja and mature Manchego), typically it’s whites that do one of the best job, from the traditional match of sancerre sauvignon blanc and younger recent goat’s cheese, to a honeyed, apple-tangy dry oaked chenin blanc resembling Domaine des Deux Vallées’ with a slice of equally creamy-tangy gruyere.
Artuke Rioja, Spain 2021 (from £12.95, leasandeman.co.uk; nywines.co.uk) I’ve fairly extra time for the rule that white wines are finest with fish: actually, nearly every kind of white fish and every kind of shellfish work higher with the citrus-condiment-like capabilities of such famously seafood-friendly dry whites as chablis, muscadet, and albariño than they do with the tannins and stronger flavours of pink wine. All the identical, there’s loads of pleasure to be present in teaming some sorts of meatier fish, resembling tuna and salmon, with lighter reds. This can be a type which was as soon as related to northerly, cooler climes, however which has of late change into common just about in every single place, with even such warmer-climate areas as Rioja (within the form of Artuke’s super-juicy tinto) and Portugal’s Douro (the charmingly expressive Quinta da Pedra Alta Pedra a Pedra Clarete 2021; £12.95, thewinesociety.com) taking their place alongside conventional lighter types such because the Loire’s A l’Origine Pinot Noir La Perrière 2022 (£10.49) as candidates to pair with tuna steak.
Morrisons The Finest Oloroso Sherry, Spain NV (£6.50, Morrisons) There are some types of wine that just about by no means get the prospect to point out that they’ll do with meals, wines which might be solely broached for the warm-up aperitif or wind-down digestif slots. This can be a actual disgrace relating to glowing wines, which will be sensible with meals, whether or not it’s a floral, tangy and textured pet-nat type resembling Astro Bunny Pet Nat 2022 from the Riverland in Australia (£26.80, thesourcingtable.com) to scrub down the fragrant herbs and refined spicing of Vietnamese meals, or crisp, patisserie-creamy traditional-method fizz, resembling M&S Classics No 12 Crémant de Bourgogne NV (£12, Marks & Spencer) with fish and chips. One other conventional aperitif that’s truly higher with meals than going solo is sherry, with the brisk-and-briny, yeasty, recent dry type resembling Hidalgo La Gitana Manzanilla (£13.99, Waitrose) nearly as good as something with garlicky prawns and a richer fruitier oloroso resembling Morrisons’ excellent-value instance, an actual favorite each in and with mushroom soup.
Observe David Williams on Twitter @Daveydaibach
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