[ad_1]
I’ve painted cupboards so many occasions in my DIY life that I’ve misplaced depend, however after I determined to make use of IKEA Sektion cupboards in my studio, the considered portray them made me nervous. I had no thought paint IKEA cupboard, or if it was even attainable. In any case, there are particular supplies that simply shouldn’t be painted as a result of when you do paint them, it in all probability gained’t final lengthy.
I had by no means used IKEA cupboards earlier than, so I had no thought what the manufacturing facility end was like, or what they have been product of. However after studying on the product description for my Veddinge doorways and drawer fronts that they have been product of fiberboard, polyurethane paint, and acrylic paint, I felt assured that they may very well be painted with a sturdy end that may final.
And I’m so glad I went for it! Whereas I don’t have any part of cupboards fully completed but (the one pictured under is the closest to being completed, however I nonetheless want to complete the toekick), these cupboards have far exceeded my expectations, not solely in how they operate (I’m now a big fan of IKEA Sektion cupboards!!), but additionally in how they give the impression of being. I completely love my pink studio cupboards.
Why Paint IKEA Cupboards?
I do know these of you who’re acquainted with IKEA cupboards and the superb manufacturing facility end that comes on these cupboards are in all probability questioning, “Why on the planet would you paint these within the first place?” I get it. It’s a legitimate query. And the easy cause is as a result of I had my coronary heart set on pink cupboards for my studio. And naturally, nobody has ready-to-assemble pink cupboards. Pink cupboards are all the time going to be a customized end.
However let me let you know, I’ve by no means wished a lot that I used to be a white cupboard form of particular person! After I began opening up the IKEA packing containers and seeing the superb, sturdy manufacturing facility end on these doorways and drawer fronts, the thought that I used to be going to spoil such an ideal end form of made me unhappy.
However…pink. The considered pink cupboards saved me transferring ahead. 😀
And because it seems, portray IKEA Sektion cupboards isn’t any totally different from portray another cupboards. The method is all the identical, so as soon as I bought previous my preliminary nervousness of ruining the manufacturing facility end, the remainder all felt very acquainted to me. So let me present you step-by-step how I did it.
How To Paint IKEA Kitchen Cupboards
The cupboard doorways and drawer fronts that I ordered are the Veddinge type, that are fully flat on the entrance and the again. If you happen to preserve these as is, they’re absolutely the best to color, and all you want is a six-inch paint curler for easy surfaces.
However in fact, I can’t go away properly sufficient alone, so I made a decision so as to add trim to the fronts of my doorways and drawer fronts. This made the method a bit tougher and required a sprayer for the fronts. However I’ll get to all of that in a minute.
Right here is my primary course of for portray these IKEA Sektion Veddinge doorways and drawer fronts:
- Sand the fronts and backs to scuff up the manufacturing facility end, and take away the mud,
- Prime the back and front of every door and drawer entrance,
- Sand the primer on the backs of every door and drawer entrance to take away any imperfections, and take away the mud,
- Paint the backs of every door and drawer entrance with two coats of paint, sanding flippantly between coats,
- Clear coat the backs of every door and drawer entrance with two coats of clear coat, sanding very flippantly between coats,
- With the backs fully dry and completed, sand the primer on the fronts, and take away the mud,
- Paint the fronts with two coats of paint, sanding flippantly between coats,
- Clear coat the fronts with two coats of clear coat, sanding very flippantly between coats,
- Let the fronts dry completely (ideally a full day, not less than) after which set up!
Once you see the steps listed like that, the method doesn’t appear very intimidating, proper? In reality, it appears fairly easy. However most individuals get slowed down within the particulars. Ought to I spray? What if I don’t have a spot to spray? Can I brush? And if I brush, how do I do away with brush stroke?
It may be so much to assume by way of, so let me present you precisely how I did it, what merchandise I used, and provide you with some suggestions alongside the way in which.
Step 1 – Sand the manufacturing facility end
Step one was to sand the manufacturing facility end to provide the floor some “tooth” for the primer and paint to stay to. I did this utilizing my electrical sander and 100-grit sanding discs. This IKEA manufacturing facility end is hard, and whereas I might typically begin with 150-grit, I discovered that the robust IKEA manufacturing facility end required one thing extra abrasive.
There’s no have to sand your complete end off. In reality, what you see within the photograph above was my very first one to sand, and I sanded it far more than mandatory. The purpose is to take away the tremendous shiny manufacturing facility end, however there’s no have to sand by way of the paint right down to the naked materials.
(Non-obligatory) Add trim
If you happen to’re planning on including trim to your doorways and drawer fronts, now’s the time to do it. The entire cause I purchased the Veddinge door and drawers was in order that I may do my very own trim design and get monetary savings. However clearly, that is fully optionally available. I might guess that most individuals purchase Veddinge fronts as a result of they need that flat, no frills look.
(Non-obligatory) Drill holes for cupboard {hardware}
I all the time advocate that when you’re going so as to add drawer pulls or knobs to the cupboards, drill these holes earlier than portray the cupboards. That manner, if any errors are made, they are often mounted with some wooden filler and sanding earlier than you begin priming and portray. There’s nothing extra disheartening than drilling holes for {hardware} on freshly painted cupboard doorways and making a mistake.
Step 2 – Prime the back and front of every door and drawer entrance
In any case of that, I used to be lastly prepared to start out on the priming. I used Zinsser BIN Shellac-Primarily based Primer. That is nice stuff, and I used it as a result of it’s costly and I occurred to have it readily available from different tasks I’ve performed just lately.
If I didn’t have this readily available, I might have opted for my different favourite Zinsser Oil-Primarily based Cowl Stain primer.
Each are incredible merchandise, however the oil-based is about half the worth.
PLEASE NOTE: There are a number of kinds of cupboard doorways and drawer fronts obtainable from IKEA and different firms to suit the IKEA Sektion cupboards. I don’t know what all of them are product of, so that you’ll have to examine earlier than choosing a primer. Something made with wooden or a wooden product will be primed with both of the above merchandise. Something made with any sort of laminate would require the shellac-based primer. Even at that, portray laminate will be tough, so the sturdiness and longevity of the end could also be questionable.
I utilized the primer to the backs of the doorways and drawer fronts utilizing a 6-inch curler for easy surfaces. Ensure the label on the curler says “easy surfaces”! And my private choice is those that truly appear like miniature variations of rollers that you just’d use for partitions. I can’t stand these small foam rollers!
Step 3 – Sand the primer on the again of every door and drawer entrance
This primer dries fairly rapidly to the contact, however I allowed it about two hours of dry time, after which I sanded it flippantly with 220-grit sandpaper. This didn’t require a lot work in any respect. This was only a very fast sanding with the intention to take away any bubbles or imperfections which will have escaped my discover.
As a result of I made issues tough for myself by including the trim to the fronts, I couldn’t use the curler to prime the fronts. As a substitute, I had to make use of my little paint sprayer, which signifies that the job needed to be performed outdoors. If I had left the fronts plain, I might have used a curler to prime the fronts as properly. After spraying the fronts with primer, I allow them to dry, after which flippantly sanded them similar to I did the backs.
Step 4 – Paint the again of every door and drawer entrance
Subsequent, it was time for paint. I used Behr Premium Plus paint, which is my favourite common function paint. And so long as I’m planning on utilizing a transparent coat (which I used to be on these cupboards), I really feel snug utilizing this common function paint on cupboards. If I weren’t planning on clear coating, I might have gone with a better high quality paint from both Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams made particularly for cupboards, like Benjamin Moore Advance.
However I like a transparent coat end for sturdiness, so I caught with Behr Premium Plus, and I added Floetrol within the quantity specified on the directions. Floetrol helps to eradicate brush strokes when you’re brushing a end, and helps to eradicate that orange peel impact when you’re spraying or rolling a end.
After the primary coat, I gave it a fast sanding with 220-grit sandpaper.
After which I sprayed a second coat of paint on the backs.
Step 5 – Clear coat the again of every door and drawer entrance
I adopted that with two coats of my absolute favourite clear coat — Basic Finishes Excessive Efficiency Topcoat in a flat end. I rolled on the primary coat with a six-inch curler for easy surfaces, and let it dry. Then I gave it a fast sanding with 400-grit sandpaper, and adopted up with the second and ultimate coat.
I left these to take a seat in a single day to dry earlier than beginning on the fronts.
Step 6 – Sand the primed entrance of every door and drawer entrance
I did the fronts in the identical sequence, beginning with flippantly sanding the primer with 220-grit sandpaper.
Step 7 – Paint the entrance of every door and drawer entrance
Subsequent, I used my sprayer crammed with my paint blended with Floetrol, and sprayed the primary coat, let it dry, after which gave it a light-weight sanding with 150-grit sandpaper earlier than spraying a second coat.
Sadly, I wasn’t in a position to spray the fronts of the entire doorways and drawer fronts due to the climate. The climate appeared stunning, however on one of many days I used to be engaged on these, the temp was 109 levels, with the “really feel like” temp in all probability hovering round 112 or possibly even increased.
So after I tried to make use of my sprayer, which sprays a really effective mist of paint (which is what typically produces such a phenomenal end with that that orange peel look that heavier sprays usually produce), the effective mist of paint was midway dry by the point it left the sprayer and hit the door. That produced a powdery, tough end as an alternative of the attractive, easy end I’m used to.
In order that day, I needed to end up the portray course of indoors with a brush. Once more, had I not added trim to the fronts, your complete portray venture may have been performed rapidly and simply with a small 6-inch curler for easy surfaces. However due to the trim I added, I had to make use of a brush. It wasn’t an enormous deal, although! It was slower, for certain, however as a result of I used to be utilizing a model new gallon of paint with Floetrol added, the end got here out superbly.
And even on those I brushed, I did one coat, let it dry completely, gave it a light-weight sanding with 220-grid sandpaper, after which brushed on a second coat.
Step 8 – Clear coat the entrance of every door and drawer entrance
When the paint was totally dry (which doesn’t take lengthy in our present 100+ diploma climate), I sprayed the primary coat of clear coat, let it dry, after which very flippantly sanded with 400-grit sandpaper earlier than spraying the second and ultimate coat of clear end.
When sanding the primary coat of clear end, it’s crucial that you just use a really gentle hand, and keep away from sanding on the corners/edges of the piece. The clear coat end is all the time the thinnest on the corners and edges, and when you do a lot sanding in any respect in these areas, it’s virtually assured that you just’ll sand by way of the paint end and must do numerous touchups. I simply keep away from these altogether, and solely sand the flat surfaces.
After sanding the primary coat of clear coat, and earlier than spraying the ultimate clear coat (the coat that actually issues), I exploit my air gun attachment on my air compressor to ensure the entire sanding particles has been eliminated completely.
I take further care with this step as a result of the second and ultimate coat of clear coat on the fronts of the doorways and drawer fronts is the one which counts! That is the ultimate end that everybody will see, so I need it as excellent as attainable.
There could also be occasions that sanding the primary coat of clear coat could reveal a spot of primer.
In that case, I simply dip my finger into the paint, and dab it onto the spot. You can even use a really small craft paint brush for this. Simply be sure the touchup paint could be very easy, and let it dry completely earlier than spraying the ultimate clear coat.
Right here’s what that spot appeared like when it was dry.
So after these tiny contact up areas are dry, you’re able to spray the second coat of clear coat, and that’s it!
Step 9 – Let the fronts dry completely and the set up
It’s essential to not rush this step. I do know the temptation is the set up the doorways and drawer fronts as quickly as they really feel dry to the contact, however needless to say most finishes take 30 days to completely remedy.
I’m not suggesting that you just wait 30 days to put in them. I’m manner too impatient for that. But when I’ve used Basic Finishes (which dried more durable and quicker than only a painted end), I like to provide them not less than 24 hours earlier than messing with them. I’m too impatient to attend longer than that, however I’ve discovered that giving it a full day is sufficient for them to be sturdy sufficient to resist the jostling and manhandling and even the occasional bump that occurs when putting in doorways and drawer fronts.
In order that’s it! It’s an extended course of, nevertheless it’s a course of I’ve used for years now, and I’ve had a lot success with lasting, sturdy finishes. Whereas I don’t have IKEA cupboards in my kitchen, I did paint my my kitchen cupboards in 2017 utilizing this course of, they usually nonetheless look incredible right this moment.
And I’m very laborious on surfaces. If you happen to learn my weblog repeatedly, and comply with alongside on my room remodels, you know the way laborious I’m on my flooring. 😀 Nicely, I’m not significantly better with cupboards or the rest, and my painted kitchen cupboards have held up superbly to my abuse. After six years, I solely have three tiny imperfections within the paint, and people are three chips in regards to the dimension of half of a grain of cooked rice, they usually’re all in areas that you just’d anticipate (just like the door just under the sink). Aside from these three tiny chips, the paint is fairly excellent.
I do know that portray cupboards will be daunting when you’ve by no means performed it earlier than. However the advantage of paint is that it might all the time be sanded when you make a mistake. If you happen to by chance stick your fingers into moist paint, simply let it dry, sand it, and check out once more. In case your end doesn’t end up as easy as you need it, be sure it’s dry, sand it, and check out once more. It’s actually not something to be frightened of.
A number of ultimate ideas and suggestions:
First, it actually doesn’t matter when you paint with a brush, a curler, or a sprayer. Don’t stress an excessive amount of about that call. You will get a phenomenal end with any of these instruments. If all you may have is a brush, I simply extremely advocate that you just use Floetrol in a model new quart or gallon of latex paint to get one of the best end.
Don’t pull out an outdated gallon of paint that’s been sitting in your storage room for a 12 months and assume that you just’re going to get an incredible end in your cupboards. Model new paint plus Floetrol has all the time been the successful combo for me, and it really works superbly even when you’re going to brush the paint on.
Additionally, the way in which through which I apply paint depends upon just a few issues. For instance, if I have been portray doorways and drawer fronts which can be fully flat on front and back, I might select to make use of a curler on all the things and on each step, from priming, portray, and clear coating.
If I’m portray doorways and drawer fronts with trim or element that makes a curler impractical, clearly my choices can be a brush or sprayer. Which one I select depends upon issues just like the climate (like our 109-degree climate thtn made spraying tough) or the time of day (like if I solely have time to color at evening when it’s darkish outdoors). In these conditions, I’ll choose to color issues with a brush so I can work.
So there’s actually no right reply. It’s all about no matter is handy for the time of day, the climate on that individual day or season, and the type of cupboards. However all three strategies of portray cupboards work simply effective, with some being extra environment friendly than others (clearly, brushing goes to be the slowest technique), however all three will get you to the end line. And so long as you are taking time to do every step (DON’T SKIP SANDING!!!), you may find yourself with a phenomenal outcome.
One ultimate tip…
Now there’s one factor to remember, and it is a massive one. All the time bear in mind than all three strategies of utility will lead to barely totally different sheens on the completed product. I can’t clarify it, however I’ve skilled this sufficient to know that even when you’re getting your paint out of 1 can all through your complete venture, when you brush one door and spray the following, there will likely be a distinction in sheens.
This isn’t actually essential for each single step. As I discussed above, throughout the portray step of the method, I sprayed among the doorways, after which needed to brush others. That wasn’t an enormous deal since I used to be planning a transparent topcoat. Nevertheless it’s crucial to remember when doing the ultimate coat on every door and drawer entrance.
So I warn you about that simply to say that when you choose a technique for that ultimate coat for the door fronts and drawer fronts, keep it up. Don’t spray half of your cupboard fronts on a day with good climate, after which brush or roll the remainder as a result of it’s raining the following day however you need to get the cupboards performed. If you happen to begin off spraying the ultimate coat on the fronts, spray all of them. If you happen to begin off rolling some, roll all of them. If you happen to begin off brushing a few of them, brush all of them.
I used totally different portray strategies on mine attributable to climate, however I sprayed the clear coats on each single door entrance and drawer entrance in order that there can be no variations in sheen as soon as they have been all put in. And so they look incredible!
I believe I’ve coated the entire steps that I used on this IKEA cupboard portray venture. However you probably have questions, please be at liberty to ask!
Addicted 2 Adorning is the place I share my DIY and adorning journey as I transform and enhance the 1948 fixer higher that my husband, Matt, and I purchased in 2013. Matt has M.S. and is unable to do bodily work, so I do nearly all of the work on the home on my own. You’ll be able to be taught extra about me right here.
[ad_2]
Source link